Getting around Lake Como

If you were thinking about renting a car to get around in Lake Como, think again.  You definitely don’t need one.   Getting there from Milan is easily accessible by train and the boat service to and from the various towns is very reliable.  The only drawback is if you want to dine in a town other than the one you are staying in, you will need to eat on the early side as the last boat leaves most ports at 9pm.  That said, many of the towns are not easily accessible to each other by car, so you are actually better off with the boats.  Aside from that, I didn’t see a need for a car, as walking is the best way of getting around.

When coming in from Milan, the trains run frequently and take about ½ hour to an hour depending on where you are staying on the lake.  Part of why we chose Varenna was that it was a direct ride from Milan on the train.  We didn’t need to transfer to a boat.  That was particularly important as we arrived in the evening from Venice and we would have been hard pressed to get there in time for check in if we had had to get a boat as well.  We would have had to leave at least an hour to two hours early if we were staying in a town that required us to transfer to a boat.  Plus Varenna is a spectacular town to stay in!  

Two Restaurants with Spectacular Views and Amazing Food!

Two sunsets to die for and two fantastic meals don’t come easily, however in Varenna we were blessed with both.  We were lucky that we chose well for our two nights in Lake Como and we want to make sure that you don’t miss out.  We arrived from Venice late on the first night and grabbed a quick bite close to where we were staying. It was fine, nothing special.  Average meals do exist in Italy.  The next two nights blew us away.

Vecchia Varenna was the place we chose on our first night in Varenna.  The restaurant is situated right on the lake and the meal was fabulous.  The night we ate there, the sky was the brightest pink I have ever seen.  

It was only while taking pictures did I realize that the color only lasts for about 10 minutes or so before it just gets dark.  We sat there watching with a great bottle of wine and then ordered our food.  We decided to share several dishes so that we could taste a little bit of everything.  We had home made pasta dishes, 

fish that was caught that day from the lake and desserts that were to die for.  

The staff and service were excellent.  Don’t miss out on Vecchia Varenna!

La Vista is the restaurant that I mention in my blog about Lake Como hotels.  Is is connected to the Hotel Albergo Milano and is run by the husband and wife team, Edigio & Bettina Mallone.  The restaurant is up on the hill in Varenna, so when you sit on the deck you have a birds-eye view of the lake and mountains.  It is truly incredible!  

Reservations are recommended, especially if you are there in the nicer weather.  They will not over book so that in the event of rain, they can sit everyone inside.  Every day Edigio creates a different 3 course meal for 35 Euros, which we got.  Edigio was also our sommelier, and ran downstairs to get us the  ‘07 Aglianico that we wanted because the one he had upstairs was too warm for his liking.  It was an amazing bottle all for 21Euros!  We started with a tuna carpaccio and beef carpaccios, 

we then moved on the a filet with a Gorgonzola sauce and a Lake Como bass with a chardonnay sauce

and finished our meal with a cappuccino mouse in a dark cup that was ridiculous 

and a pear stuffed with goat cheese.  It was outstanding! 

These are 2 great restaurants that I would whole-heartedly endorse.  Both nights we had great service, amazing food and wine and views that are unlike any other.  If you find yourself in Varenna, put these restaurants on the top of your list.  You won’t be sorry!

“A Room with A View”

I hemmed and hawed about which hotel to choose.  I was deciding between two.  Little did I know I chose the hotel with the larger room (I was hoping I did and it was a duplex!) 

and also the one that had a spectacular garden area so that I could sit and read and write by the lake with a nice glass of wine or a cup of tea.  Hotel Villa Cipressi was a fantastic place to spend a couple of days in Lake Como.  The views are spectular, the grounds are stunning, staff is friendly and helpful and the price is definitely right.  

We had so much space we were delighted!  When we opened our shutters in the morning to the spectacular view of the lake and mountains, I felt like I was in a Noel Coward play.  You got transported to another time, like the 1920's,  when people of privilege lounged in leisure at these amazing Villas. Villa Cipressi was built mainly from 1400 to 1800.  It is now owned by public corporations and managed as a hotel.  If you are looking for old style elegance with lots of room, this is the place to stay. 

Having said that, the other hotel that we looked at was Albergo Milano.  We had a spectacular dinner in their restaurant which I will tell you about later this week.  The views are amazing.  It is a small boutique hotel run by a husband and wife team.  They also run the restaurant.  We sat next to a couple at dinner that was staying at the hotel, who said that the rooms were beautiful but a little small.  Everything else about their experience was fantastic.   They said they would definitely stay there again.  Hotel Albergo Milano has recently added two apartments to their list of places they rent out.  They were not available for this last trip,  but they looked really nice.  I would be into renting one the next time I am there.  Based on my experience in the restaurant, all the reviews I have read and people that we spoke to who were staying there, the apartments would be a great alternative to a hotel. 

Varenna was talked about in all the research I did to be a spectacular place to stay and a very central place to see the rest of the lake from.  I would agree.  

It was everything I wanted:  not too over-populated with tourists, yet had enough to do.  The boats run frequently from there to the other towns and the trains run direct from Milano without having to connect to a boat.  Staying in Varenna was a real treat.  I wouldn’t have wanted to be anywhere else.  No matter which hotel you choose, if you choose to stay in Varenna, you will most certainly have a quaint and beautiful room with a view. 

Lake Como. Wow!!

Imagine waking up and looking out your window with a picture postcard view of a beautiful lake surround by the equally stunning Alps.   Welcome to Lake Como!  If you are like everyone I know the first question that you will ask me about Lake Como is, “Did you see George?”  Sadly, I didn’t see George but now I understand why he has a house there.  It is unbelievably beautiful and tranquil, a place where you can truly relax and unwind.  The great thing about going there is there is just enough to do where you will not get bored, but also not so much to see that you forget to sit back and enjoy the view.  You can go hiking, swimming in the lake, boating or just go to the local wine store and do a wine tasting. The food is spectacular and no matter where you go to have lunch or dinner it seems that there is a view that you will never tire of looking at.   This week I will tell you all about my favorite spots and tips on things to do.  Even if you don’t actually see George you will feel like you are sharing a little piece of his pie.

Cooking Class on the Amalfi

When I am traveling, I'm often surprised by how open I am to talking to strangers.  Does this happen to you too?  Maybe it's because I'm on vacation, maybe it's because the people are different but I definitely let my New York guard down.   Which is how cool things like this happen: on our first day on the Amalfi Coast, Skye and I went down to our favorite village market while our friends were napping.   We were getting supplies for dinner, contemplating the basil (for the bufala mozzarella and tomato salad we were planning, duh) and this nice American man overheard us, reached into his bag, pulled out a huge bunch of basil and offered us some.  He explained that he had to buy the whole bunch but that he didn’t need it all (it was his last night on the Amalfi) and as he didn’t want to waste it, would we like to have some?  Now, whereas in New York I would have been somewhat wary, without hesitation we took it enthusiastically (and thanked him, of course).

As we continued talking, we discovered that his name is Maurizio Malfeo, the chef and mastermind behind Carpe Diem, a Chicago-based catering company.  He comes from an Italian family and still has a lot of relatives on the Amalfi Coast, where he brings people every summer for Italian cooking classes.  He arranges renting the villa where everyone stays, and then they spend a week or two cooking and eating.  Fun, right?  Skye did something similar in Tuscany in 2008 and had an absolute blast.

Skye at cooking school in Tuscany in 2008

Normally, we wouldn't write a post about something we haven't actually done, even if it did give us the opportunity to relay a basil-gifting anecdote (something you would not find on any other blog, right?)   But Chef Malfeo seemed knowledgeable and nice, and from our brief interaction, someone we would like to take a cooking class from.  So if learning to cook in a villa on the Amalfi Coast is up your alley, you should contact him.  Ph/fax:  312-786-9013 or email.  Tell him you got his information from the travel blog girls he gifted with basil in the Amalfi market.  

Pompeii and Ercolano

My first experience with Pompeii was in 1978 when The MFA Boston put on an exhibit of the main pieces of Art discovered in the dig.  (Most of those pieces are now on display at the National Archeological Museum of Naples)  At the time, because my mother was an art teacher for the High School Scholarship art classes given by the Museum, we had a special employee viewing.  It was amazing.  I was young but I still remember it vividly.  So actually standing in Pompeii last year was an extraordinary thing for me.  I have to say, it's pretty impressive and much bigger than I expected it to be.  It's a whole town.  Be sure to get the map at the entrance when you buy your ticket. It helps you know exactly what you are looking at. Unlike the one I described for the Roman Forum,  these maps are actually useful!  

It struck me while I was there that the Pompeians were far ahead of their time in many ways.  They had tracks in the roads for carriages, and huge aqueducts that brought water to the town that are still usable.  I am a big history buff, so this part was awesome for me.  Of course the brothel with the menu of sexual acts painted on the walls to choose from is really fun (and um, informative?) as well. If you are with friends, you are sure to have at least one "Wait, how would you even do that?" or "No, seriously, what IS that?" moment.

The frescoes and the marble floors are in great condition.  I know there has been extensive restoration work, but still, it is remarkable that many of these paintings could have survived a volcanic eruption.

Even some of the graffiti on the walls is still there.  The fossilized bodies that were caught in the lava are pretty remarkable, as is the Colosseum.  Pompeii is a great day trip.

Although smaller than Pompeii (and with less to see), Ercolano is pretty cool as well. If you have the day set aside, you should take the opportunity to see both.  Combination tickets are available for 20 Euros.  Ercolano is where the wealthier people lived and so it is a little bit different than Pompeii.  Head to Ercolano first and then take the train to Pompeii.  It is easy and quick.  If you are coming from the Amalfi Coast for the day you can get a boat from Sorrento to Amalfi.  No need to rent a car.

Ravello

In my opinion, Ravello is one of the most beautiful towns of the Amalfi Coast.  Gore Vidal used to have a home near the town center and claimed it was the most beautiful place in the world.  Overall, Ravello is less touristy than the very popular Positano, and therefore, more tranquil.  We stayed in Ravello, but we stayed in lower Ravello, at a villa that is on the ocean and not up in the mountains, which means we had the benefit of the ocean to swim in as well as the view.  And it's a short but steep bus ride up the hill to center Ravello, which has many great things to explore.

First off there is the Ravello Music Festival.

Concerts take place at Villa Ruffalo (the villa is open to the public daily) where you will sit and watch the sunset over what is possibly the most extraordinary view available and listen to classical music.   I can’t imagine a more lovely evening.

Villa Cimbrone, a historic building with gardens and a hotel is worth the short but steep walk. Even as you approach, you feel as if you are entering some sort of magical secret garden.

Gore Vidal famously wrote that in all of his travels he had not seen a place that surpassed the view from Villa Cimbrone.  He's right: it has some of the most breathtaking views available on the Amalfi coast.  The “Terrace of Infinity” is truly spectacular.

The gardens are beautiful. I can't imagine how gorgeous it must be in the spring and summer when all of the flowers (including a full english-style rose garden) is in full bloom. We were there in September and most flowers had gone by.  If you only want to see one of the two villas (either this or Villa Ruffalo), definitely choose Villa Cimbrone.  The views are unbelievable and there's more to see.

There are also some great little stores to check out in Ravello as well as the church in the town square.  There was a wedding going on when we were there, but the inside is supposed to be beautiful.  All in all, if you want to feel as if you are viewing the Amalfi coast from a cloud, visit Ravello.  It is worth the trip.  It's also very pretty at night, we walked around the square after dinner and met some locals who invited us to a BBQ later that week (stay tuned for that story!)

Vietri sul Mare: The Ceramic Capital

Los Ceramica
Vietri is the ceramic capital of the Amalfi Coast.  The streets are lined with shops most of which are carrying similar designs.  Each store will have their own specialty item, but on the whole, you will see a lot of the same exact plates and bowls.  There are several stores that produce real works of art that will cost you a pretty penny if you are willing to spend the money.  I did however, find a store that had truly unique pieces and were very moderately priced.  Los Ceramica.  

I bought a beautiful pitcher there.  It was across the street from the restaurant we ate lunch at, Voce del Mare.  Oddly there wasn’t anyone there watching the store.  It seemed as though I wasn't going to be able to buy the pitcher.  Just then, the parking lot attendant from the restaurant came over and asked me which piece I wanted to buy.  He called the artists to find out the price, took my money and wrapped up my pitcher.  Now that is making good use of your workday.  Two jobs at once!  It was really funny.

Positano: The most popular town on the Amalfi Coast

If you have heard of any place on the Amalfi Coast it is likely to be Positano.  It is in most of the pictures you will see of the Amalfi.  It is a picturesque town set up on the hill with vibrantly colored buildings and charming houses.    It is a fantastic day trip.  I prefer to stay in Ravello because it is not quite so touristy and little more peaceful, but many people find Positano the only place to stay.  Positano has magnificent views, and great shops and restaurants.  

One cool thing that we did was to go searching for “ceramic glass” on the beach.  Our friend Ethan (who lives in Naples) told us the beach on Positano has pieces of ceramic tile that have been washed up on shore much like sea glass that we find here.  The Amalfi Coast is known for it’s ceramics and apparently much of the tile from the factories gets thrown into the ocean.  It then lands on the beach.  I have a couple of beautiful pieces that I kept.   I always thought that was a cool tidbit of information.  So go and enjoy the shops and restaurants, antique store etc and then take a walk on the beach and see if you can find some beautiful colored pieces of ceramic to take home with you.

Ischia: A lesser-known secret of the Amalfi Coast.

If you are taking a trip to the Amalfi Coast, I am sure you want to go to Capri.  It is written about in literature, referred to in movies and basically just a site that you won’t want to miss.  And, I am not trying to talk you out of your day trip to Capri, BUT, I am definitely saying that if possible, you should try to spend a couple of days on Ischia.  

You need a couple of days to really explore it.  We were only there for the day so we really only got to see one aspect of it, the Thermal Spas.    Ischia’s big claim to fame is that it is home to many thermal baths and spas.  We chose to spend our day relaxing and pampering ourselves at one of them.  There were two big ones that both seemed great.  We chose Negombo.  It was September, so although it was still somewhat crowded, I'm sure it was less so than if we had gone in July & August.  We had a great time.  The other big spa on the island is Giardini Poseidon Terme. We met a really lovely couple from Naples (they live in England now but vacation in Italy annually).  They told us Giardini Poseidon Spa was owned and run by Germans, and therefore much more organized (that’s really funny!), but Negombo had the most spectacular views.  Having not been to Giardinii Poseidon Spa, I can't compare the two, but I can say the views at Negombo are indeed spectacular.  You are right on the ocean in a small cove and you feel as though you are in a tropical resort.  

I would absolutely put this on your list of places to stay for a couple of days.  I am looking forward to returning and exploring all the things I didn’t get to this trip.  In the meantime, if you do go, here are some things that you should check out while you are there:

Spa day in the Mediterranean

Negombo Spa on Ischia is fantastic and super relaxing.  Here are some tips for you that will make your experience even better.

·      When you get off the boat, take the bus to Lecco Ameno.  It will cost you 1.50 Euro and will take you approximately 15-20 min.  Tell the bus driver where you are getting off and he will let you know when you get there.  When you get off, ask the locals to point you in the right direction.  You basically walk through town and up a little hill, but it isn’t exactly clear.  It will only take you 10 min to walk.

·      The cost to get into the spa is 29 Euros for the day.  Towels are not included and they don't rent them there, so if you don't have one you will have to buy one for 12 Euros.  They do have lockers, which are included in the price. 

·      There are several boats per day from Naples and Sorrento but only 1 from Amalfi.   So if you are leaving from Amalfi you will get on the Alilauro line leaving at 8:25 and returning at 4:20.  The ticket window doesn’t open till 8am so don’t rush to get there any earlier.

·      We have compiled a list for your trip of things you will want to have.

Don’t forget your…….

·      Towel

·      Cover up – it is good to have one for walking around or eating at the restaurant

·      Flip-flops

·      Sunblock

·      Undies – then you can change out of your swimsuit for the trip back if you choose.  We forgot them….lol

·      Sweatshirt for the boat

·      Camera

·      Guidebook or simple map

Other places to see while you are there: (these are on our list for the next trip)

Ischia Porto

There is a castle that is worth seeing called Castello Aragonese, which you can see from the boat when you are coming into port.  Our friend Ethan has been there and says it is really cool. 

Forio

Forio is the location of many great things.  First it is where the other thermal spa Giardini Poseidon is located.  Run by Germans and apparently very well organized.  (It makes me chuckle.  I couldn’t help mentioning it again)www.giardiniposeidon.it. 

Giardini La Mortella are the spectacular gardens created by the Argentinian wife of the famous British composer William Walton.  It is now open to the public and has stunning views of the vistas on the bay of Forio.  In addition to the gardens there is Greek Theatre (where they still occasionally hold performances) and a museum.

The other great thing to do in Forio is taste wine.  Ischia is home to many wineries producing fantastic wines and most of them are located in Forio.  

Capri....more of a hike than you think!

When going to Capri I recommend two things:  wear sneakers & definitely go on a hike.  Capri has some of the most breathtaking views you will ever see.  Of course you will have climbed up and down some unbelievable paths to see them.   

Literally when I say you are climbing a mountain that is what you are doing.  Skye & I did it last year and she wore flip-flops.  I could see her calves’ spasming by the end of our hike and she is in good shape!  I was really glad I had worn sneakers.  Fodor’s guide (5th edition) has a remarkable hike that is listed in their Naples & the Amalfi Coast guide-book.  It is pretty explicit in its directions and the walk itself was well worth the time.  It took us 5 hours to do, but the views are unprecedented.   I would highly recommend following the Fodor's hike.   Another tip for the hike:  take water and a sandwich.  There are a couple of places in Capri town where you can buy lunch and drinks.  Once you get on the path, there isn’t anything around.  We had bought lunch before we got started and boy was I glad we did.  It was great to be able to stop and eat something half way.  You really work up an appetite!

Some other great hiking tips:

There is another book out there that I was unable to get.  The latest edition hadn’t come out yet and the last published was no longer available.  It is called the Sunflower guides.  I have seen it listed in several sites and guidebooks and was disappointed that I was unable to get it.  It apparently also has a guide to the “Walk of the Gods” that goes along the Amalfi Coast from Positano to Minori that is meant to be unbelievably beautiful.  (Hence the name “Walk of the Gods”)  We had it planned to do it this year, but a huge storm came in.... and lasted three days.  Supposedly the hike is a little difficult at certain points, and not one that you want to do when it is slippery or rainy, so we didn’t get to go.   However, I am going to get the next edition of the Sunflower guide for when I do go back.  Rumor has it, the Sunflower guide is available for great scenic walks and the Amalfi Coast is an ideal place for that.

Restaurants on the Amalfi Coast

Literally.   As you might imagine, we stayed in that night.   Apparently they have a house specialty of Zuppa di Pesce.  You should call ahead and let them know that you want it (they make a limited number of portions per night).  It also has an outdoor terrace where you can sit and watch the nightlife in Amalfi while you enjoy the fabulous meal on your plate.

Voce del Mare – 

The atmosphere in this clifftop restaurant in Vietri is gorgeous and the seafood was unbelievably fresh.  A friend who lives in the area took us there, and it was outstanding.  We had  salmon carpaccio and a swordfish carpaccio that were out of this world, followed by a pasta course.  There were 5 of us and we all ordered something different.  I had the lemon shrimp risotto in a Parmesan cup(fantastic) and I tasted my friend’s dish (the special of the day) of homemade pasta with fresh seafood in a tomato ragu.  Both were to die for.  Our Vietri friend ordered a couple of entrees, which we all shared, including  

a couple of local fishes that were delicious.  The Swordfish melted in your mouth.  I don’t think I have ever had Swordfish this fresh.  I wish I could eat it like this all the time… sigh.  Then dessert came.  All of the dishes were beautifully presented (see photos). 

Yet another heavenly meal on the Amalfi Coast.

The best bufala mozzarella in world!

Due G – Mozzarella place in Casal di principe.  A small chain with about 4 or 5 stores

Our friend Ethan lives in Naples.  When he came down to Ravello last year, he brought the MOST AMAZING bufala mozzarella I have ever tasted in my life.  Not kidding, it is different there than anywhere else in Italy.  I never even liked bufala mozzarella until I had this stuff.  As my return to the Amalfi Coast neared this year, I found myself dreaming of it.  It is that good.  I tried to explain it to my friend Cristina (who is Italian and went with us this year), but she didn’t understand what I was talking about.... until she had it and then she was floored.  Ethan gets this incredible mozzarella at Due G, a small chain with about 4 or 5 stores in Naples and the surrounding area.  If you like bufala mozzeralla then you owe it to yourself to stop and get some on your way to the Amalfi Coast or if you are in Naples for any reason. 

Note from Skye: Do not put your mozzarella di bufala in the fridge, or else it will get mushy.  Leave it in the water it comes in, room temperature, and eat it within a few days (trust me, not hard to do!)

Great place to stay in Rome

We were only staying 3 nights in Rome and I wasn’t able to find a short-term rental in the area I wanted.  Campo dei Fiori and Trastevere are my 2 favorite areas to stay in.  


Both are centrally located, have lots of great shops and restaurants and have an artsy, fun vibe.  This trip we stayed at Casa de’ Fiori, right off the square in Campo dei Fiori.  It is a perfect location to get to all major sight seeing areas of the city, yet does not have the tourist vibe I associate with Times Square.  The hotel has fairly spacious rooms and all are clean and modern.  I have stayed here twice and loved it.  There are 6 rooms total and they offer a very nice complimentary breakfast.  They also do have an apartment located a bit closer to Piazza Navona.