Places not to miss in Amalfi

From where we stayed in Ravello, the town of Amalfi was a short 20 minute walk down the hill.  It is a major port for boats (as is Positano) and has all the quaint charm of a seaside village that you could want.  We went to the markets there for our food and wine and bought unique and gorgeous purses and ceramics at the local shops.  


Enoteco ‘A Puteca was the wine shop that we went to.  

The two gentlemen that run it are extremely knowledgeable about the wines from the regions and made some fantastic recommendations in every price category.  (I think that says a lot because they are not just trying to sell you the most expensive wines.)  Among the great wines we got there were:  Gallicius (Aglianico),  Sammarco (rosso) several Falanghinas (a white varietal) and Greco di Tufos (another white from the region).   I would highly recommend them over the other wine store in Amalfi.  They were friendly and willing to help you find a great bottle of wine, whatever your budget may be.  They do also ship wine if you find a wine you just can't live without and want to send a case home.  But be aware it isn’t cheap. Email luigi.conforti2@tele2.it for information on having wine shipped to you.

Across the street from the wine shop there is a small market, which has all the necessities, and a little bit of everything else.  They have a great meat and cheese counter, along with all the staples (sugar, milk, paper towels, etc.)  In addition they carry a fantastic local wine called Sammarco.  It is good wine and it will cost you 3 Euro a bottle.  That is probably the equivalent of $5 and there is no $5 bottle of wine that I have ever had here in the states that would stand up to this.  It was our house wine, we always had a bottle or two in the villa to sip on the terrace after a grueling day of shopping. The staff is friendly and will help you find whatever odd thing you may need.  


We bought our fruits and vegetables at a little store without a name.  It was down a side alley across from the limoncello factory store, and looks like a fruit and vegetable stand.  Here is a picture of the outside:

The woman who runs it has the best produce and will remember you if you go back.  The peaches were the sweetest, most delicious I have had since childhood. If they are in season they have Fagioli Beans that you can’t get here and are delicious!  We boiled them and ate them with a little salt and olive oil, or put them in our pasta. Even straight from the pot by themselves, they are delicious.

Bazar Florio.  They have high quality leather bags and purses at a great price.  I bought a wallet and a purse there this year by Lucia Tommasi, an Italian designer that makes beautiful and unusual bags and purses, most of which come with a matching leather covered pocket mirror and nail kit.  I also needed a repair on the Lucia Tommasi purse I bought last year and they insisted on just giving me a new one.   Skye bought two bags from Bazar Florio this year. She bought a carry-on bag that I don’t have words for, it is that beautiful.  The leather is like butter!  She also found a purse with matching hardware, extremely unique.  If you are looking for good quality leather bags, belts or wallets I would make a trip to Bazar Florio.  They have styles for everyone that won’t break the bank.
Via P. Capuano, 5-7

Il Ninfeo.   The Amalfi Coast is known for its ceramics.  A lot of what you will see is, (in my opinion) the stuff that you would expect to see.  By that I mean the typical Mediterranean look–plates with suns and birds and lemons that isn’t particularly special, or necessarily my style for that matter.  However, Il Ninfeo is one of the places that we found that has a selection of beautiful, unique pottery and dishes.  I got a set of red dishes there last year that I was hoping to get more of, but (sigh) they don’t make that design any more.  

Skye bought a beautiful plate there this year in the design above. The woman who owns the produce market saw the bag and told us she goes to Il Ninfeo when she wants to buy a gift or something special for herself.  If you like pottery or ceramic dishes and really want something that will stand out on your dinner table go to Il Ninfeo.  Just remember:  they weigh a lot in your suitcase.  They, like many of the shops, will ship your purchases back to the states, but again, it's not cheap. One more reason to pack light and bring a large carry on bag!


A small tip:


The fresh fish markets in Amalfi (as well as most of Italy) close by 1pm.  They open at 8am, selling what was caught that day.  If you are planning to buy fish for dinner make sure you get there before 1pm.  They are also closed on Sunday.

Positano: The most popular town on the Amalfi Coast

If you have heard of any place on the Amalfi Coast it is likely to be Positano.  It is in most of the pictures you will see of the Amalfi.  It is a picturesque town set up on the hill with vibrantly colored buildings and charming houses.    It is a fantastic day trip.  I prefer to stay in Ravello because it is not quite so touristy and little more peaceful, but many people find Positano the only place to stay.  Positano has magnificent views, and great shops and restaurants.  

One cool thing that we did was to go searching for “ceramic glass” on the beach.  Our friend Ethan (who lives in Naples) told us the beach on Positano has pieces of ceramic tile that have been washed up on shore much like sea glass that we find here.  The Amalfi Coast is known for it’s ceramics and apparently much of the tile from the factories gets thrown into the ocean.  It then lands on the beach.  I have a couple of beautiful pieces that I kept.   I always thought that was a cool tidbit of information.  So go and enjoy the shops and restaurants, antique store etc and then take a walk on the beach and see if you can find some beautiful colored pieces of ceramic to take home with you.

Ischia: A lesser-known secret of the Amalfi Coast.

If you are taking a trip to the Amalfi Coast, I am sure you want to go to Capri.  It is written about in literature, referred to in movies and basically just a site that you won’t want to miss.  And, I am not trying to talk you out of your day trip to Capri, BUT, I am definitely saying that if possible, you should try to spend a couple of days on Ischia.  

You need a couple of days to really explore it.  We were only there for the day so we really only got to see one aspect of it, the Thermal Spas.    Ischia’s big claim to fame is that it is home to many thermal baths and spas.  We chose to spend our day relaxing and pampering ourselves at one of them.  There were two big ones that both seemed great.  We chose Negombo.  It was September, so although it was still somewhat crowded, I'm sure it was less so than if we had gone in July & August.  We had a great time.  The other big spa on the island is Giardini Poseidon Terme. We met a really lovely couple from Naples (they live in England now but vacation in Italy annually).  They told us Giardini Poseidon Spa was owned and run by Germans, and therefore much more organized (that’s really funny!), but Negombo had the most spectacular views.  Having not been to Giardinii Poseidon Spa, I can't compare the two, but I can say the views at Negombo are indeed spectacular.  You are right on the ocean in a small cove and you feel as though you are in a tropical resort.  

I would absolutely put this on your list of places to stay for a couple of days.  I am looking forward to returning and exploring all the things I didn’t get to this trip.  In the meantime, if you do go, here are some things that you should check out while you are there:

Spa day in the Mediterranean

Negombo Spa on Ischia is fantastic and super relaxing.  Here are some tips for you that will make your experience even better.

·      When you get off the boat, take the bus to Lecco Ameno.  It will cost you 1.50 Euro and will take you approximately 15-20 min.  Tell the bus driver where you are getting off and he will let you know when you get there.  When you get off, ask the locals to point you in the right direction.  You basically walk through town and up a little hill, but it isn’t exactly clear.  It will only take you 10 min to walk.

·      The cost to get into the spa is 29 Euros for the day.  Towels are not included and they don't rent them there, so if you don't have one you will have to buy one for 12 Euros.  They do have lockers, which are included in the price. 

·      There are several boats per day from Naples and Sorrento but only 1 from Amalfi.   So if you are leaving from Amalfi you will get on the Alilauro line leaving at 8:25 and returning at 4:20.  The ticket window doesn’t open till 8am so don’t rush to get there any earlier.

·      We have compiled a list for your trip of things you will want to have.

Don’t forget your…….

·      Towel

·      Cover up – it is good to have one for walking around or eating at the restaurant

·      Flip-flops

·      Sunblock

·      Undies – then you can change out of your swimsuit for the trip back if you choose.  We forgot them….lol

·      Sweatshirt for the boat

·      Camera

·      Guidebook or simple map

Other places to see while you are there: (these are on our list for the next trip)

Ischia Porto

There is a castle that is worth seeing called Castello Aragonese, which you can see from the boat when you are coming into port.  Our friend Ethan has been there and says it is really cool. 

Forio

Forio is the location of many great things.  First it is where the other thermal spa Giardini Poseidon is located.  Run by Germans and apparently very well organized.  (It makes me chuckle.  I couldn’t help mentioning it again)www.giardiniposeidon.it. 

Giardini La Mortella are the spectacular gardens created by the Argentinian wife of the famous British composer William Walton.  It is now open to the public and has stunning views of the vistas on the bay of Forio.  In addition to the gardens there is Greek Theatre (where they still occasionally hold performances) and a museum.

The other great thing to do in Forio is taste wine.  Ischia is home to many wineries producing fantastic wines and most of them are located in Forio.  

Capri....more of a hike than you think!

When going to Capri I recommend two things:  wear sneakers & definitely go on a hike.  Capri has some of the most breathtaking views you will ever see.  Of course you will have climbed up and down some unbelievable paths to see them.   

Literally when I say you are climbing a mountain that is what you are doing.  Skye & I did it last year and she wore flip-flops.  I could see her calves’ spasming by the end of our hike and she is in good shape!  I was really glad I had worn sneakers.  Fodor’s guide (5th edition) has a remarkable hike that is listed in their Naples & the Amalfi Coast guide-book.  It is pretty explicit in its directions and the walk itself was well worth the time.  It took us 5 hours to do, but the views are unprecedented.   I would highly recommend following the Fodor's hike.   Another tip for the hike:  take water and a sandwich.  There are a couple of places in Capri town where you can buy lunch and drinks.  Once you get on the path, there isn’t anything around.  We had bought lunch before we got started and boy was I glad we did.  It was great to be able to stop and eat something half way.  You really work up an appetite!

Some other great hiking tips:

There is another book out there that I was unable to get.  The latest edition hadn’t come out yet and the last published was no longer available.  It is called the Sunflower guides.  I have seen it listed in several sites and guidebooks and was disappointed that I was unable to get it.  It apparently also has a guide to the “Walk of the Gods” that goes along the Amalfi Coast from Positano to Minori that is meant to be unbelievably beautiful.  (Hence the name “Walk of the Gods”)  We had it planned to do it this year, but a huge storm came in.... and lasted three days.  Supposedly the hike is a little difficult at certain points, and not one that you want to do when it is slippery or rainy, so we didn’t get to go.   However, I am going to get the next edition of the Sunflower guide for when I do go back.  Rumor has it, the Sunflower guide is available for great scenic walks and the Amalfi Coast is an ideal place for that.

Restaurants on the Amalfi Coast

Literally.   As you might imagine, we stayed in that night.   Apparently they have a house specialty of Zuppa di Pesce.  You should call ahead and let them know that you want it (they make a limited number of portions per night).  It also has an outdoor terrace where you can sit and watch the nightlife in Amalfi while you enjoy the fabulous meal on your plate.

Voce del Mare – 

The atmosphere in this clifftop restaurant in Vietri is gorgeous and the seafood was unbelievably fresh.  A friend who lives in the area took us there, and it was outstanding.  We had  salmon carpaccio and a swordfish carpaccio that were out of this world, followed by a pasta course.  There were 5 of us and we all ordered something different.  I had the lemon shrimp risotto in a Parmesan cup(fantastic) and I tasted my friend’s dish (the special of the day) of homemade pasta with fresh seafood in a tomato ragu.  Both were to die for.  Our Vietri friend ordered a couple of entrees, which we all shared, including  

a couple of local fishes that were delicious.  The Swordfish melted in your mouth.  I don’t think I have ever had Swordfish this fresh.  I wish I could eat it like this all the time… sigh.  Then dessert came.  All of the dishes were beautifully presented (see photos). 

Yet another heavenly meal on the Amalfi Coast.

Vadiaperti Winery

So if you want the experience of a lifetime try to request a visit at Vadiaperti Winery.  Raffaele Troisi, who is the owner, showed us one of the most spectacular tours of a winery I have ever had.  

He does not do many tours so if you are planning to come to Avellino email ahead to see if he is available to show you around.  We tasted Colle de Volpe, Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo, Aglianico as well as an “experimental port” and an exceptional grappa.  It was one of the highlights of this vacation and if you are lucky enough to be able to go and visit this winery and taste some spectacular wine, you should put this on the top of your list.  Any extra effort in getting there is worth the experience 150%.

info@vadiaperti.it

The best bufala mozzarella in world!

Due G – Mozzarella place in Casal di principe.  A small chain with about 4 or 5 stores

Our friend Ethan lives in Naples.  When he came down to Ravello last year, he brought the MOST AMAZING bufala mozzarella I have ever tasted in my life.  Not kidding, it is different there than anywhere else in Italy.  I never even liked bufala mozzarella until I had this stuff.  As my return to the Amalfi Coast neared this year, I found myself dreaming of it.  It is that good.  I tried to explain it to my friend Cristina (who is Italian and went with us this year), but she didn’t understand what I was talking about.... until she had it and then she was floored.  Ethan gets this incredible mozzarella at Due G, a small chain with about 4 or 5 stores in Naples and the surrounding area.  If you like bufala mozzeralla then you owe it to yourself to stop and get some on your way to the Amalfi Coast or if you are in Naples for any reason. 

Note from Skye: Do not put your mozzarella di bufala in the fridge, or else it will get mushy.  Leave it in the water it comes in, room temperature, and eat it within a few days (trust me, not hard to do!)

Great place to stay in Rome

We were only staying 3 nights in Rome and I wasn’t able to find a short-term rental in the area I wanted.  Campo dei Fiori and Trastevere are my 2 favorite areas to stay in.  


Both are centrally located, have lots of great shops and restaurants and have an artsy, fun vibe.  This trip we stayed at Casa de’ Fiori, right off the square in Campo dei Fiori.  It is a perfect location to get to all major sight seeing areas of the city, yet does not have the tourist vibe I associate with Times Square.  The hotel has fairly spacious rooms and all are clean and modern.  I have stayed here twice and loved it.  There are 6 rooms total and they offer a very nice complimentary breakfast.  They also do have an apartment located a bit closer to Piazza Navona.   

Shoes, shoes, shoes! You can never have enough

I was speaking to the owner of a little boutique-clothing store in Rome and asked her if she could tell me where she likes to buy her shoes.  She gave me 3 great recommendations for fun and interesting and not overly priced places to shop, all of which were in the Campo dei Fiore area of Rome.  I ended up buying a fantastic pair of boots at one of the stores she told me about as well as another pair at a neighboring store.  This was a great area.  These are the stores she told me about:

 Loco, Via dei Baullari, 22; Posto Italiano, Via de Giobbonari (it doesn’t have a name on it but you will be drawn to the shoes in the window), the last one is Borini, Via dell’Arco del Monte.

Ways to see Rome that you never knew existed

If it is your first time in Rome there are certain things you should be sure not to miss.  Here are some are some great tips that will make you feel that you have seen all the sites of Rome without the ho-hum tourist experience.  If you have been to Rome before but are looking for new ways to see the city, here are a few fresh ideas that will make this experience different from your last.

1. Vatican – St. Peter’s Basilica & tour of the Sistine Chapel.  I highly recommend the tour of the Sistine Chapel because you will learn a lot more than you would on an audio guide and it is far more interesting when you can ask questions to a live person.

I have gone on and recommended Romearound Tours to many people who have had great experiences with them.  All of their tour guide are either teaching Art History, are Artists studying in Italy or are Art History Majors and are extremely knowledgeable and engaging.  It is worth the money for this personal tour.   I recommend going to the Sistine Chapel first as the lines to get into St. Peter’s lessen in the afternoon.  Skye recommends just getting to the Sistine Chapel as soon as it opens so that you can experience all the glory without all the crowds.  Don’t look at anything on the way, just run to the Sistine Chapel first.  If you knew Skye you would understand that this method makes sense and is completely hers.  Remember that there are no shorts (or short skirts) and that women must have their shoulders covered so bring a little sweater or jacket.  The general rule is that shoulders and knees must be covered.

Scavi Tour - If you have time on another day you should treat yourself to the Scavi tours.  It is a tour of the excavations under the Vatican of the original gravesite for St Peter that was found in 1939 when digging a burial site for one of the newly deceased Popes.  There are only about 200 people that get to see it daily and you should call and reserve your spot several months in advance.  Although I will say that I went the day of and was very nice to the very serious Swiss Guard men (one could not call it flirting – that would have been too hard with these guys ☺) who let me go in and see if there was a cancellation and the ticket person let me join the group.  That said I was only 1 person.   Dress requirements are the same for the Scavi tours as for the Vatican.

The Colosseum & the Forum

The Colosseum is one of the many fantastic pieces of architecture left in Rome.  You should definitely plan to visit.  It is right next to the Forum and you can buy a joint ticket for the 2.  If you plan to do that you should go in the morning or early afternoon and go to the forum first.  I got there an hour before they sold the last ticket and they wouldn’t give me an audio guide and the map they gave me was more or less useless.  I mean I was looking at ruins and they don’t exactly leap out at you and tell you what they are.

You should leave yourself 2-3 hours to see the forum and you can either go to the Colosseum after seeing the Forum or use the ticket on another day as is good for 2 days.  Another really cool option that I wish I had been able to do is,  beginning at the end of August until late October you can tour the Colosseum from 9pm till midnight with an archeological tour guide.  It is only on Saturday nights so if you are only in Rome for a few days see if you can plan your trip to accommodate this.  I am going to try to do it on my next trip there.    Apparently they are doing the same Saturday night tours of the Bath of Caracalla, which I have not been to.  I am guessing you should book your tickets in advance as they are sold out for the next 5 weeks.  Night Colosseum tours.

The Trevi Fountain –

You should definitely throw your coins into the Trevi Fountain.  The legend is (as told to me by my Roman friend):  Throw one coin to go back to Rome, 2 coins for new love and 3 coins for marriage.  Perhaps I should have thrown 2 or 3 last year because throwing 1 definitely worked and I returned to Rome within a year.  I recommend going at night to throw your coins, as it is far less crowded and you will have great picture ops.  You might even have to wait in line to get to the fountain during the day.

Tips from this last trip

I am always looking for a fantastic dining experience.  Especially when I am on vacation in a place that is known for it’s great food.  Often however, if you get stuck in the tourist areas or simple just don’t know where to look, your meals are less than you hoped for.

In both Rome and Venice I found fantastic local guides to restaurants and nightlife.  Weirdly, I found them both in Museums.  So, the next time you find yourself abroad and are looking for some help in finding a great place to eat, look at the gift shop of a museum.  They might just have the skivvy on what you are looking for.

Venice.  What can I say, it is beautiful and has some of the most well known architecture going but absolutely has the worst maps for trying to figure out how to get around on foot.  We ended up finding our way because Skye has an IPhone and she used google maps to navigate us.  The published maps don’t have half of the street names on them and sometimes there are more than one of the same street in different sections of the city.  If you don’t have an IPhone, the water taxis are the best bet to get you at least close to your destination.  Or see if you can get google maps on your phone.  This will be especially helpful if you are only in Venice for a couple days and want to see as much as possible.

Amazing purses that will make everyone green with envy

On my search for the off the beaten track and truly unique things that will remind me of my fabulous vacation, I found some cool stores on this trip to Rome.   After all, you can buy a Luis Vuitton bag anywhere, but if you want something special that will send envious looks your way wherever you go, you must check out these finds that will make your heart sing.

Il Pallino di Vali.   This store has some really cool purses!  I am still kicking myself for not having bought one.  Many of the purses have snaps that make the bag change shape so you can have 3 versions of your purse instead of one.  It isn’t one of those bags you would know changes shape, so I was totally surprised when the sales person showed me.                          

 The one that I wish I had had time to go back for was blue suede on one side and on the other was a cow hair animal print design.  Talk about truly unique.  These were a work of art.   There were several designs and some were patterned on one side and some were plain but they were beautiful.  The colors ranged from vibrant to soft and subtle.   You should check out this store located in this boutique shop area of Trastevere.
Via di Santa Dorotea, 4
www.ilpallinodivali.it

T-Nobile.  If you are looking for something a little more traditional than the purses at Il Pallino di Vali you will love T-Nobile.  They have purses in all shapes and sizes and the leather is beautiful.  Like buttah!  Also did I mention that they are very reasonably priced?  The bags are all made on the premises and the staff is exceptionally friendly and helpful.  We ended up with nice purchase from this store.  This is a purse that will last forever.

Via Nazionale, 7, Trastevere

Leather Shop.  The other store that I found on this trip for bags was Leather Shop.  I bought a gorgeous small bag there that is going to be a favorite of mine for a long time.

They have many styles and lots of colors.  They sell wallets, belts and gloves as well.  After shopping at all the high-end stores near the Spanish steps, walk over to this gem and get yourself something more affordable and original.  You will love your new purchase as well as the price tag that came with it.

Piazza Barberini, 50, Roma

Great Restaurants and Bars in Rome

I spent 2 1/2 days in Rome.  We had a couple of the best meals I have ever eaten.  2 places were recommendations from locals we met and several were finds from "Roma by Night" a restaurant and nightlife guide book I bought that was in Italian and English.  I highly recommend buying a guide like this if you can find it as you will get some great ideas and the restaurants are likely to be less touristy and more of where the locals hang out.

Ristorante der Pallaro Oh my god!  Talk about a fantastic little find.  The Chef is a woman named Pauola who is everything you expect an Italian grandmother to be.  She will come out in between cooking meals and say hello and make sure that you are enjoying her cooking.    There are no menus, which made eating there exciting for me.  We had a 4 course dinner that made my mouth water.  The lentils were delightful; we had a tasting of 2 different pastas and a meat dish.  I believe she changes things up all the time, and if you want to go back she will cater it to make sure you get something different.  Go there and put your culinary experience in her hands, and  you will have a fantastic night.

Largo del Pallaro, 15 in Campo de' Fiore 06.68801488

Ristorante Il Ciak –

On our last night in Rome we visited Ristorante Il Ciak.  It had been a recommendation from the "Roma by Night" book.  We had another spectacular meal.  Their specialty is Tuscan cuisine with a focus on Char-grilled meat.  There were very few people speaking English and the menu was all in Italian.  It was definitely not geared for tourists!  We loved it.   We had ravioli in a Wild Boar sauce and Pasta Amatriciana both were out of this world.  We also had a grilled pork dish that was so fresh we though we had gotten the wrong thing because it didn’t taste like any pork I had ever had.  It was outstanding.  This section in Trastevere is filled with restaurants so if this one is too packed there were some others right around the corner that looked fantastic.  

Vicolo dei Cinque, 21 Trastevere.   +39 06 58 94 774

Wine Bar Cul de Sac

If you are looking for a place for fantastic cheese and meats with a great selection of wine, Cul de Sac is a very popular place right near Piazza Navona.  They have a great wine list and it's a nice area to sit outside and pass the night away.  If you are going during a colder season the inside is warm, welcoming and small so you might have the chance to mingle.

The night life really gets fun in the square in Campo de' Fiore.  Especially in the summer with all the outside seating.   It is a great place to enjoy the languid summer nights.  Some other bars to check out are:

Obika (also a mozzarella bar where you can sample top-quality Mozzarella di Bufala Campana that is delivered daily from Paestum and Agro Pontino)  They have 2 locations in Rome.    www.obika.it

La Vineria.  A great place to sit and take in the scenery over a glass of vino.   Campo Dei Fiore 15.