Places not to miss in Amalfi

From where we stayed in Ravello, the town of Amalfi was a short 20 minute walk down the hill.  It is a major port for boats (as is Positano) and has all the quaint charm of a seaside village that you could want.  We went to the markets there for our food and wine and bought unique and gorgeous purses and ceramics at the local shops.  


Enoteco ‘A Puteca was the wine shop that we went to.  

The two gentlemen that run it are extremely knowledgeable about the wines from the regions and made some fantastic recommendations in every price category.  (I think that says a lot because they are not just trying to sell you the most expensive wines.)  Among the great wines we got there were:  Gallicius (Aglianico),  Sammarco (rosso) several Falanghinas (a white varietal) and Greco di Tufos (another white from the region).   I would highly recommend them over the other wine store in Amalfi.  They were friendly and willing to help you find a great bottle of wine, whatever your budget may be.  They do also ship wine if you find a wine you just can't live without and want to send a case home.  But be aware it isn’t cheap. Email luigi.conforti2@tele2.it for information on having wine shipped to you.

Across the street from the wine shop there is a small market, which has all the necessities, and a little bit of everything else.  They have a great meat and cheese counter, along with all the staples (sugar, milk, paper towels, etc.)  In addition they carry a fantastic local wine called Sammarco.  It is good wine and it will cost you 3 Euro a bottle.  That is probably the equivalent of $5 and there is no $5 bottle of wine that I have ever had here in the states that would stand up to this.  It was our house wine, we always had a bottle or two in the villa to sip on the terrace after a grueling day of shopping. The staff is friendly and will help you find whatever odd thing you may need.  


We bought our fruits and vegetables at a little store without a name.  It was down a side alley across from the limoncello factory store, and looks like a fruit and vegetable stand.  Here is a picture of the outside:

The woman who runs it has the best produce and will remember you if you go back.  The peaches were the sweetest, most delicious I have had since childhood. If they are in season they have Fagioli Beans that you can’t get here and are delicious!  We boiled them and ate them with a little salt and olive oil, or put them in our pasta. Even straight from the pot by themselves, they are delicious.

Bazar Florio.  They have high quality leather bags and purses at a great price.  I bought a wallet and a purse there this year by Lucia Tommasi, an Italian designer that makes beautiful and unusual bags and purses, most of which come with a matching leather covered pocket mirror and nail kit.  I also needed a repair on the Lucia Tommasi purse I bought last year and they insisted on just giving me a new one.   Skye bought two bags from Bazar Florio this year. She bought a carry-on bag that I don’t have words for, it is that beautiful.  The leather is like butter!  She also found a purse with matching hardware, extremely unique.  If you are looking for good quality leather bags, belts or wallets I would make a trip to Bazar Florio.  They have styles for everyone that won’t break the bank.
Via P. Capuano, 5-7

Il Ninfeo.   The Amalfi Coast is known for its ceramics.  A lot of what you will see is, (in my opinion) the stuff that you would expect to see.  By that I mean the typical Mediterranean look–plates with suns and birds and lemons that isn’t particularly special, or necessarily my style for that matter.  However, Il Ninfeo is one of the places that we found that has a selection of beautiful, unique pottery and dishes.  I got a set of red dishes there last year that I was hoping to get more of, but (sigh) they don’t make that design any more.  

Skye bought a beautiful plate there this year in the design above. The woman who owns the produce market saw the bag and told us she goes to Il Ninfeo when she wants to buy a gift or something special for herself.  If you like pottery or ceramic dishes and really want something that will stand out on your dinner table go to Il Ninfeo.  Just remember:  they weigh a lot in your suitcase.  They, like many of the shops, will ship your purchases back to the states, but again, it's not cheap. One more reason to pack light and bring a large carry on bag!


A small tip:


The fresh fish markets in Amalfi (as well as most of Italy) close by 1pm.  They open at 8am, selling what was caught that day.  If you are planning to buy fish for dinner make sure you get there before 1pm.  They are also closed on Sunday.